Being passionate by both History and Fashion (no big surprise since I hold degrees in both fields) I got fascinated to see how much designers runways are inspired by previous fashion styles. Below are two examples that did a wonderful job reviving past fashion styles, the first from Maria Grazia Chiuri for Dior and the second from Virginie Viard for Maison Chanel.
Happy read!
Dior 2023 vs 16th Century Catherine de Medici
Maria Grazia Chiuri was inspired by the 16th century French queen, Catherine de Medici, for her Dior Spring Summer collection 2023.
First, we notice a very defined waist in Maria’s designs which remind us of the metal corset used by women during Catherine’s reign. Maria made the hood skirts lightened to add some airy bounce and bring a modern touch.
Second, the multi-strap boots finished with mountaineer’s ropes or spiked platforms remind us of the stacked platforms Catherine preferred to elongate her stature. Platforms which some say she invented!
The colour palette chosen of white, gold and a great deal of black for Dior recalls Catherine preference for black, a powerful and costly dye. As a widow for 30 years, she nearly always wore black, hence her nickname, the Black Queen.
Catherine also invented a specific needlepoint style, a geometric embroidery named the ‘punto madama’ which, of course, Chiuri used many times in her clothes. Maria also crafted into her dresses a rich lace, back then worth more by weight than gold.
Finally, Maria used many underwear from the past with a modern touch, crinolines semi-sheer lace, peasant skirts, big ruffled blouses, crinkled wool sheathes, boudoir undies and silk bras.
Chanel 2023 vs 70s Fashion Era
The 2023 Chanel collection by Virginie Viard draws heavily from the 70s decade.
First and most noticeable similarity are the high-waisted flares which were the silhouette of the ’70s. During that decade blazers and flared bottoms were an unbeatable combo and Virginie used the same for most of her designs.
Then we have the sky-high platforms shoes very specific to this period as well as the warm colour palette, a mix of browns, rust and earthly-hued neutrals. We have here a beautiful mixture of Chanel (tweed suit and chain belt) with the 70's geometrical lines and pattern.
The current model wears her long hair flowing and mid-parted, a Boho sensibility reused by the designer. Chanel's jewelery also recalls the 70’s. Ethnic-inspired jewelery was everywhere back then. It was all about statement pieces, pendants and other pieces were large and attention grabbing, meant to stand out. Jewellery layering was also popular, and it was common to see women wearing several chain necklaces on top of one another.
The dominant metal of the decade was yellow gold; gold hoops, gold chains, and gold bangles were found all-over the landscape. Of course, it helped that yellow gold tones complement natural and warm colors.
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